You Won't Believe. . . A Day In The Gobi











June Calender

 

© Copyright 2021 by June Calender


Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
PPhoto courtesy of Wikimeda Commons.


Our group of sixteen piled into three ugly old Russian troop carriers (the Land Rover substitute in Mongolian tourist travel). Each had a driver and his helper whose job was to make sure the driver stayed on the faint tracks in the unmarked expanse of flat brown dessert. We drove south from our ger camp (“gers”—rhymes with bears—are what the hated Russians  had called “yurts”). Here the Gobi was packed dirt, with scarce very low, mostly brown vegetation that sustained feral Bactrian camels. We were headed for a national park in a mountainous area. The vehicles spread out across the desert so no one had to drive in another’s dust cloud.

We stopped briefly at the only lonely ger on the way. A herder couple invited us into their felt home, showed us their small family altar with postcard-size pictures of Buddha. They offered us dried cheese, like sand colored stones. It had to be sucked; any attempt to bite it would mean emergency dental care. (There were no dentists for miles around). They had lost all their sheep the winter before last in the worst blizzard in decades. Their eight children had left for less destitute places.. Our guide gave them some money and the hard boiled eggs meant for our lunch.

In the park we visited a small museum and ate box-lunches before walking into a canyon where we were promised a surprise. We saw picas and passed a picnic area where another troop carrier and a tea kettle over embers indicated people would return. We met one of the group who told us in halting English that he was a doctor here with other friends from the nearest hospital. They had a day off and were enjoying the canyon. Further on we heard laugher and shrieks that sounded like an amusement park. Here?


We found a small group of men and women sliding and playing like children on a patch of ice. Yes, ice! Ice in the Gobi. Ice left over from that horrible winter. The canyon must have been filled with snow.. We and the Mongolian health workers walked back out trying to chat but the foreign language they had learned was Russian.  They were all glad that at last the Russians had been replaced by a new Mongolian goverment.


When we were a half mile from our vehicles our guide pointed at the very dark sky in the north. He told us to hurry, that was unmistakably a rain storm. It had not rained for many, many months but …  It did not rain, it poured. But not on us. We drove toward the cloud which was moving northeast. It looked like a theatrical curtain being pulled across the stage always ahead of us. Then it disappeared beyond us.


Three miles from our ger camp, we drove into a lake.  Only about five inches deep, it extended as far as we could see. Where dust had risen in clouds, now the troop carriers sprayed arcs of sparkling water. No tracks were visable but the drivers had a good sense of direction. We tourists, on our first day in this fabled dessert, saw water, water everywhere, and nothing else at all until our ger camp came into view. The storm had moved east, the afternoon sun was shining. The water was sinking into the dessert leaving sparkling marble-size hailstones on the ground.


Two vehicles reached the camp but our vehicle got mired in the tire tracks of a predecessor about 50 yards from the fence (to keep out feral camels). The others would come back to help our driver but we piled out on the suddenly green plants. The desert had already soaked up the rain. I had walked only a few steps when I was hit between the shoulders by a kind of snowball. My roommate, an ebullient woman who had retired from an executive position with the Canadian Girl Guides was a  pro at snowball fights. I gave her back as good as she gave me. Briefly kids with hands full of melting hailstones, we chased one another to the camp.


As we started toward our gers to change out of soggy sandals, the guide called us to an area behind the camp’s kitchen building where a low area had become a river. We saw a shaggy old, nearly blind wolf that hung around the camp because he was given scraps standing  befuddled in water up to his shaggy belly. What was this strange experience?

We headed to the dining room for cold Genghis Khan beer before dinner and were stopped in awe at a magnificent rainbow--a complete half circle of melding colors, its ends touching the earth as the sky behind it became a glowing mango.

The next day was entirely different. We drove north to the Flaming Cliffs where Roy Chapman Andrews found the dinosaur skeletons that now stand in the New York Museum of Natural History. Here were sand dunes, pink cliffs and our hottest day, at 115 without a wisp of shade anywhere or a cloud in the sky. The second day was the typical July day in the Gobi but the first was the day about which we would tell our friends back home, “You won’t believe …

Our tour of Mongolia covered the most interesting places. We arrived in time or the annual National Fair in Ulan  Battur -- wonderful to see, visited parks and took a long bus trip through the hilly country side to the area where Gengis Khan had built his capital, most of which no longer exists. Then we flew to the Gobi for a couple of days.  After that we flew to the northern-most section which is forested and borders Russian Siberia.  There we met a reindeer herder group and were introduced to a woman Shaman who had a tent (very much like our Native Amerions's tents) and saw some of the reindeer who were very uncomfortable and stinky  sweating in what to them was much too hot weather.

I have been afraid we would be fed a lot of mutton which I don't like. But the food was very good (we even had pizza). The city is small but was very modern. In the country side we stayed in "ger villages" which were comfortable.


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