As
Black History
Month reaches its climax, there is one notable achievement by a black
majority country such as Jamaica that has not been mentioned
or rarely recognized – the food it currently shared with the
world. Jamaican dishes and food are delicious tasting food and
dishes, now expropriated and exploited by the ethnic minority,
especially big capital bearing white Jamaica. People may be
indifferent to this or just do not care, but what is factual cannot
be thrown under the carpet.
Over
the years Jamaican food has had the distinction of being one of the
best tasting food in the entire globe. The food is tasty and
enjoyable to all palate in the world. It is not bland and neither is
it too hot or too extremely spicy as are many so called dishes and
food of Non- Caucasian countries. What makes Jamaica dishes appealing
is that they draw their ingredients, flavours and preparation from
those who comprised the population. Like the National Motto- Out
of Many One People- the dishes and foods draw their inputs and flavor
from Africa, the United Kingdom ( Britain and Northern Ireland),
India, China and even from Eastern Cuba and Mexico ( in the form of
the red kidney beans). But the finish dish is undeniable and
undoubtedly the creation of the black poor majority.
From
internationally known jerk meats ( chicken , pork, beef and today
venison) to rice and curried goat, internationally known ackee and
codfish, internationally known patties , rice and peas and chicken,
curried chicken, fried dumplings, fried fritters, roast beef, stew
peas, beef stew, festival , fried cassava bammies, steam cassava
bammies, fried plantains, roasted yams and roasted sweet potatoes,
carrot juice and milk, soursop juice and milk, Jamaica can and have
satisfied with “full belly” dishes and food that leave
one asking for extra servings. No other nation with under 3.5 million
people has so much tasty food to offer its citizens and
foreigners like this reggae creating island.
Jamaican
tasty and comfort food and dishes had their origins in the kitchens
of the poor and marginalized. The nation’s food is a
testament to the creativity and resourcefulness of the masses, in
particular, the rural poor. Take for example “Mannish Water”
– it is a soup cooked from the intestines and sometimes head
and intestines of the goat. Flavoured with spices and fortified with
ground provisions or green bananas it is a flavourful, hearty soup
enjoyed at parties, funeral repast, even weddings and socials. Then
there is pepper pot soup which like a New Orleans gumbo draw it
contents from various food sources such as pumpkin, pepper, taro
leaves and a host of vegetables all cooked together to make a
nutritious and tasty soup.
While
tourists and foreigners delight by savouring the flavourful Jamaican
food and dishes, at home big capital having the money to finance
restaurants and low paying working class cooks have had the biggest
laugh to the bank. Across the island are well organized eating spots
serving these culinary creations by Jamaican working class and
peasants. The poor created these dishes for their own comfort and
enjoyment , but their forefathers would never have imagined that
millions of Jamaican dollars would be earned by those who for years
despised the food of the poor.
For
many years the rich and ethnic minority turned a blind eye to the
dishes prepared by the masses. In their world view , nothing so low
eaten by “peasants” should grace their tables. The only
exception were the meal snack called Jamaican beef patty, a type of
meat pie and of course the English inspired roast beef and beef stew.
Anything else was snubbed. Since the 1990’s , there has been a
change in wind. With so many black athletes from Jamaica, so many
reggae and dancehall musicians creating worldwide acknowledgement of
things and people Jamaica, the local bourgeoisie and ethnic minority
found that with their big capital they could supply the facilities
such as restaurants, café, and other eateries where food
prepared by working class hands could entice , excite and delight the
palate of foreigners, the working class and all Jamaicans with
disposable income to buy rather than cook their meal.
Currently
, the food industry is significantly controlled by those with
wealth and they capitalized on the culinary skills of the masses
serving at above average prices native food that brings enjoyment to
people. Places like Scotches have been making millions from selling
roast potatoes, roasted yams, roasted codfish and other “formerly
slave foods.” The international chains of hotels such as Bahia
Principe, Sandals Group and RIU have devoted every evening and lunch
time for Jerk Chicken. Ackee and saltfish (codfish) is a fixture at
breakfast as are fried dumplings and cassava bammies. No longer is
grassroots food for the grassroots- it is available to every race and
visitor who is on the Jamaican shore. Nothing is wrong with the world
exposed to the food of former slaves, of those resisting slavery and
colonization and of the peasantry at large but it is alarming as to
who profit from the creation of the masses. Sadly this is the way of
the world, its capitalism and free market as any man can deploy his
resources and provide a good and service, making a profit or even
sustaining a loss. We do not live in a nation of despots or communism
, so big capital is free to expropriate and even exploit because
free enterprise allows for that and the Jamaican culture always
invite competition.
Personally
I only ask for respect and credit to the poor blacks for their
creation or for the legacy of culinary delights passed down as
regular meals and not to project the image as if the dishes and
foods readily available at established eateries were created by the
rich and powerful. That is hypocrisy, hogwash and a downright lie.