The Jerilderie Letter





Troy Watson

 
© Copyright 2025 by Troy Watson




Image by Achin bm from Pixabay
Image by Achin bm from Pixabay

Outside our modest apartment in Manila, I observed a rather unusual scene: five men armed with sticks standing in the street. As I watched them, a cascade of thoughts flooded my mind, prompting me to reflect deeply on how I had arrived at this particular moment in my life and what sequence of events had led me here. It all seemed to originate from a distant past, back in the small, quiet country town of Jerilderie, nestled in the Australian outback near the Victorian border—a place renowned for its rich history and infamous for its association with the legendary bushranger Ned Kelly. Jerilderie holds a special place in Australian folklore, being the site where Kelly famously robbed the telegram office and, more notably, where he penned the legendary Jerilderie Letter—a document that has become a symbol of rebellion and storytelling in Australian history.

My journey to this point began when I decided to relocate to Jerilderie, seeking refuge from the ongoing pandemic and a tranquil environment to relax amidst my ongoing university studies. I had long been planning an overseas trip, a much-anticipated escape that I hoped would serve as a refreshment for both my mind and spirit, preparing me for future academic pursuits and professional endeavors. The destination I had chosen was the Philippines—a place I had always yearned to visit for its vibrant culture, warm climate, and welcoming people. This trip represented a long-awaited opportunity for a significant break—a chance to rejuvenate before diving back into the demanding world of studies and work.

I vividly remember sitting by the serene waters of Jerilderie Lake, contemplating the details of my upcoming journey. I was meticulously ensuring I hadn’t forgotten any essentials—passport, tickets, toiletries—while observing the tiny ants crawling out of the ground, their tiny bodies seemingly emerging from the earth itself. It appeared as if the ground was emitting fumes of gas or some invisible force, only to reveal, upon closer inspection, that it was the ants themselves, instinctively emerging and taking flight into the open sky. The scene was almost surreal, as if nature itself was unveiling a secret spectacle before my eyes.

On the day I was to depart for Melbourne, I had to rise before the crack of dawn, around 3:30 am, to begin my long travel day. I packed my belongings carefully into my travel bag and dragged it all the way through the quiet town to the local bus stop. There, I waited in anticipation for the VLine bus scheduled to depart at 5 am, bound for Melbourne. The journey to the airport was smooth, and upon arrival at Melbourne Airport, I found the accommodation arrangements quite convenient. I stayed at a small motel situated directly opposite the departures area, connected by a simple, overhead bridge—an arrangement I highly recommend to fellow travelers for its ease and comfort. Traveling, I believe, is an experience everyone should undertake; it broadens horizons and enriches understanding of different cultures and environments.

My flight on Philippine Airlines was a memorable experience. As we prepared for takeoff, the pilot’s voice crackled through the cabin, announcing our imminent departure. The aircraft powered up, and we ascended into the sky, leaving behind the familiar landscape of Australia. During the flight, a travel tracker displayed our progress, showing the distance remaining to our destination. The cabin crew served hot meals, and I was delighted to receive a refill of freshly brewed coffee, which kept me alert and comfortable throughout the journey. When we finally arrived in Manila, the scene outside the window was strikingly different from what I was used to. The clouds above had a peculiar pink hue, reminiscent of cotton candy—like the sweet treat served at circuses—adding a whimsical touch to the city’s skyline.

Stepping off the plane, I found myself immersed in the bustling streets of downtown Manila. The air was thick with a mix of scents—spicy, sweet, and unfamiliar—and the sounds of the city’s vibrant life buzzed all around me. The language was one I was just beginning to familiarize myself with, a complex tapestry of sounds that felt both exciting and intimidating. My first night in central Manila was marked by a cacophony of drums pounding until well past 1 am, echoing through the city streets and adding to the city’s lively, unrelenting energy. The weather was markedly different from the dry, cool climate of Jerilderie; the humidity was intense, and I found myself drinking copious amounts of water just to stay hydrated.

Transitioning from my quiet Australian country town—home to only about a thousand residents—to this sprawling metropolis with millions of inhabitants was a stark contrast. The sheer density of people and constant activity was overwhelming at first. Privacy, which I once took for granted, was scarce, and I struggled to adjust to the relentless proximity of strangers. The sense of personal space was diminished, and I had to adapt to the city’s unending hum of life.

Now, returning to the incident I initially mentioned—just after I had finished my bath, which I usually performed with a bucket and scoop due to the lack of modern plumbing—I was startled by an ominous knocking at the door. At the time, neighbors had been complaining about us making too much noise, especially when walking on the creaky floors of our apartment, which was essentially a labyrinth of interconnected rooms with no windows or fresh air, feeling more like a rabbit’s warren than a comfortable living space. My experiences with Australian landlords were often frustrating, but dealing with landlords in Manila proved to be an entirely different ordeal. Our living conditions were marred by issues such as mold growth—stemming from the absence of a proper drying area for clothes—and a cockroach infestation, which had worsened due to a local garbage collectors’ strike, leading to unsanitary conditions.

It was at this moment, around 11 pm, that I was summoned outside by a group of men wielding sticks. They were standing in front of the building, and their presence was intimidating. My girlfriend, concerned, asked me to retrieve her mobile phone, and I hesitantly followed her out into the street. I even left the fan on back in the apartment—an unusual move for me, as I typically turn it off when switching rooms to conserve electricity. There were roughly ten men with sticks gathered in front of a desk, and neighbors with their families had also gathered, watching the scene unfold. I couldn’t understand what was being said, as the language was unfamiliar, but the tension was palpable. My girlfriend and a woman from upstairs began shouting at each other, voices rising in anger. The head of the local council, standing behind the desk, sternly addressed both women, but no one appeared to ask for my opinion or consider my presence.

Amidst the chaos, an older man looked at me reassuringly, whispering that I shouldn’t worry and that the situation wouldn’t take long to resolve. My girlfriend grew more aggressive, shouting and fighting with the other woman. Suddenly, one of the men stepped forward and gently but firmly guided my girlfriend away from the altercation. I instinctively moved to stand between him and her, fearing he might harm her. He then instructed me to take her back to the apartment, but I refused, telling him never to touch me. His eyes met mine with a gaze I could neither decipher nor interpret—an unreadable expression that left me unsettled. Meanwhile, a large crowd had gathered in the surrounding street, their eyes fixed on us, watching the unfolding scene with curiosity and concern.

At that moment, I was wearing pajamas, having just prepared for bed, and the entire incident struck me as a stark reminder of the harsh realities of life in a foreign country. It made me reflect on the notion that one can rarely have everything—"your cake and eat it too." The cost of living in Manila, while manageable because of the affordability of food and accommodations, is not without its challenges. Issues such as cockroach outbreaks, plumbing problems, and pervasive corruption scandals significantly impact daily life. Were these problems addressed comprehensively, the cost of living might inevitably rise, altering the delicate balance that currently exists.

My journey—from the tranquil, historic town of Jerilderie to the bustling streets of Manila—has been filled with moments of awe, frustration, and reflection. The scene outside my apartment with men holding sticks is just one chapter in this ongoing story—a story of adaptation, resilience, and the complex tapestry of life in a foreign land.

*****
     My name is Troy Watson, and I am passionate about the art of storytelling through both fiction and non-fiction writing. I find great fulfillment in crafting narratives that explore the depths of human experience, as well as in articulating ideas and insights through factual accounts.
     Academically, I pursued my studies in Psychology at Charles Sturt University, located in the picturesque rural regions of New South Wales, Australia. This educational background has provided me with a profound understanding of human behavior and mental processes, which often informs and enriches my writing. In addition to my undergraduate studies, I hold a Master’s degree in Information Technology, a field that has cultivated my keen interest in technology, innovation, and the rapidly evolving digital landscape.
     Growing up in Dubbo New South Wales, I was immersed in a community that actively embraces and fosters business and cultural exchanges with surrounding regions, particularly within the broader Asian area. This upbringing sparked my curiosity about the languages, cultures, and traditions of the diverse countries in this vibrant region. I have developed a genuine fascination with their customs, languages, and societal dynamics, which continues to influence my worldview and creative pursuits.
In terms of my literary influences, I draw inspiration from an eclectic array of authors, including Friedrich Nietzsche, Honoré de Balzac, Maxim Gorky, Sir Walter Scott, and Jack London. Their diverse styles and thematic explorations have significantly shaped my own approach to writing. One of my all-time favorite works is Jack London’s novel The Iron Heel, which I admire for its powerful social commentary and compelling narrative.
      Overall, I am deeply committed to exploring the intricacies of human nature, culture, and societal change through my writing, continually seeking to broaden my understanding and craft stories that resonate with readers on a meaningful level.


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