“I,
who with the breeze Had
played, a green leaf on the blessed tree Of
my beloved country - nor had wished For
happier fortune than to wither there - Now
from my pleasant station was cut off, And
tossed about in whirlwinds.”
-
William Wordsworth, The Prelude (1805)
Every
journey begins in departure. seventeen years! I tell myself. It’s
almost two decades since I left my homeland. And this word: homeland
has grown, expanded, developed, and much longed for in me. Leaving
the place where one had been born and nurtured is not as simple as
changing one’s clothes. Migration is in itself a kind of
displacement. To migrate is to be displaced from one’s habitual
affections, surroundings, language, food, and from the people we love
and love us. Migration entails the misalignment of one’s being.
I
remember the feeling of terror, excitement, and sadness as I stepped
on the plane that would stop in Hong Kong for plane transfer before
setting off on the long flight to Italy: my destination. I remember
the faces of fellow Filipinos who were in the same flight with me.
The longing to stay, the demands of work, the fresh memories were all
etched in our weary faces. It was a sad, peaceful, and calm trip.
When I look back now to that day and contemplate the daily news about
refugees (some of whom I met and became very close friends with)
risking their lives to reach Europe I can’t help but take a
deep short breath as a gesture of relief and agony. Relief: it was
only by chance that I didn’t have to take a journey that takes
thousands of lives each year. Agony, because the West (Europe and the
US) has not yet grasped the urgency of migration.
It
was December and snowing when I arrived in Italy, a couple of days to
New Year. Used to the heat of the tropics my first winter season was
as shocking as my first encounter with snow. The cold was so sharp it
stung the skin. Dressing in winter clothes was an ordeal for someone
whose dress code all his life consists of t-shirts and slippers. A
loving sister and a good Italian friend provided me all the winter
clothes I needed. Cold and nostalgia are the faithful companions of a
migrant. Thanks to some fellow Filipinos who lightened the burden of
homesickness. Their invaluable company was a sort of lifeboat without
which the weight of homesickness was heavy enough to drive one to
insanity. I wanted to meet the local people of my newly adopted
place. I felt the need to make friends with Italians despite my
inability to speak their language.
One
cold afternoon in March while taking a solitary stroll in the city’s
main street, Via Fillungo, I chanced upon an art exhibition held at
an old church, Chiesa di S.Cristoforo. It was a photographic
exhibition organized by a church organization, Comunità di
Sant’Egidio. The photos in display from different parts of the
third world showed the overwhelming condition of poverty. It was the
theme of the exhibition. I suddenly felt the presence of my native
land. The Philippines with all its beauty and magnificence could not
cure itself of widespread poverty. The sensation I felt browsing
through the lines of photos gave me a new sense of awareness of where
I actually was, of how far and yet so near my country was. And a
thought: most Europeans, at least of this generation, have a partial,
detached, knowledge and experience of third world poverty. Our
advantage, if one can call it that, as people of color whose history
is one of colonialism and imperialism is our direct and organic
knowledge of crucial matters such as poverty. Some may not have
experienced the full situation of poverty but they are not withdrawn
from its reality. In a daily basis we feel its presence, see it with
our eyes, smell it with our nose, feel it in our skin, thus there is
very little room for sentimentality, stereotyping, and romantic
injunctions associated with poverty. I met the organizers of the
exhibition, I introduced myself, we became friendly and started to
talk. English is not so common a language in this place. Talking was
an obstacle. My handful of Italian words compensated for their
handful of English. Hand gestures and smiles did more of the talking.
They were enthusiastic and young; they invited me to join them on
their weekend activities which consisted in feeding the poor (the
unemployed, the economically marginalized migrants, refugees... yes,
the poor are everywhere even in the first world!), visiting the old,
tutoring underprivileged children... For some months I joined them in
some of their activities. It was a constructive experience. I gained
my first Italian friends who taught me to speak their language.
After
a couple of years, I slowly and patiently, with the help of some
friends, learned a little of Italian. Learning the language was a
precondition for inscribing oneself to the place. I learned the
habits, tradition, interests, and the quotidian life of the Lucchesi
(the people of Lucca). Despite the frequent bouts of nostalgia I
taught myself to adopt to the place. Wonder, appreciation, and awe
the city of Lucca made me feel again. At this period I read
voraciously. What I could least afford to do in the Philippines due
to lack of time and resources I did my best to do it here. Reading
became my ultimate priority along with the need to feed myself. Also
I started visiting museums, art exhibitions, art festivals... the
world of visual art, being exposed to the works of the great artists
made a lasting impression upon me. I imagine our heroes of the 19th
century, the Ilustrados who landed in Europe for the first time;
their curiosity, enthusiasm, and passion for knowing ignited. In
Europe everything looked new, and yet so old.
Unlike
the Ilustrados who journeyed to Europe for a specific purpose- to arm
themselves with Western knowledge in the fight against colonialism -
Filipinos today migrate in search for a better life, for a more
stable material existence; such act is an expression of human
dignity. I mentioned earlier the grief and difficulty of leaving
one’s native land. One is not simply abandoning a geographical
place but half of your being. Hearing the stories of some of my
fellow countrymen how they got here: the adversities before and after
the journey; the experience of those who crossed the borders
illegally who literally had to traverse mountains, rivers, and woods;
their experiences with bad employers who have no patience for people
who could not speak well their tongue; the encounters with racism...
these stories command respect and compassion. Now think of the
refugees from war-torn countries of Africa and the Middle East who
come here and are given no definite status as persons, unacknowledged
in their diminished moral status, moreover they are looked upon as
disruptive entities. For the migrant, the possibility of
restructuring and reliving his past life is out of the question since
one has to start his life from the scratch, one has to refind his
identity.
With
the help of my sister I was able to find a part time job that enabled
me to provide for my basic necessities and simple luxuries. The extra
money I could save I spent on books. I could eat less but read more.
The number of books in my tiny room was increasing. It had always
been my dream to build a personal library. I read everything, with a
focus on history. What was a boring subject back then in school
became a pivotal material for me. I had to cross the sea and sky to
relearn and appreciate my history! I visited historical sites around
Italy which have been heroically preserved by local peoples for
centuries. I think of the historical sites and the ancestral
homelands of the indigenous peoples in the Philippines which are
neglected in cultural discourse, ignored by official policies, pushed
out of the governmental budget. Such disregard is to our peril as a
nation, the loss of heritage, the severance of historical attachment.
Like our ancestors who fought to create and preserve their history
against the annihilating machinery of colonialism it is our moral
obligation to protect and preserve indigenous peoples, their culture,
their land, for they are, in the words of the scientist and
environmental activist, what Vandana Shiva calls, “the
cultural spiritual space which constitutes memory, myths, stories and
songs that make the daily life of the community.”
In
2008 I decided to leave for Spain. I had three goals in mind: learn
Spanish, find a job, and explore the territory. My destination was
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Legally a Spanish territory but
geographically close to the African mainland. I stayed with a
wonderful Ilokano family who treated me warmly as though I were a
close relative. Indeed, no other people on the planet can match the
hospitality of Filipinos. I would often spend my mornings at a cafe
talking to the bartender and old people to improve my Spanish; at
home I was taught Ilokano.
Las
Palmas, like Italy, is one of the main stops for refugees or asylum
seekers en route to mainland Europe. Once I visited two refugee
centers. One of the volunteers at a center told me the harrowing
stories of refugees who traveled on small old fishing boats just to
get to Europe. I was told that some refugees had no idea where
exactly they were landing, some believed they would land on America!
Those refugees who were able to avoid detention ended up in refugee
centers, some were accepted for asylum, some escaped and became
undocumented laborers, some became vagrants. While on a bus ride for
home we passed by wide acres of tomato fields where most refugees
ended up working in terrible conditions.
2008.
Europe was in turmoil. The onset of the economic collapse. In the
island of Las Palmas the crisis was deeply felt. Hundreds released
from their jobs. Tita ___, who took me in, was one of the unlucky who
suddenly lost her work. I myself couldn’t find one, except for
the three-day dish washing enterprise in a seaside restaurant. The
anger and desperation of the people caused regular protests in the
island. I am impressed by the way the Spanish fuse political
seriousness with creative humor. Political protest in Spain meant
approaching the experience of an experimental open theatre. Only in
Spain did I experience a protest where marching bands, clowns,
musicians, animals and people go hand in hand in a kind of collective
political event. They marry the serious and the humorous that makes a
political protest fun to participate. After two months, unable to
find a job, my savings almost gone, I returned to Italy defeated,
half-broke but full of lessons and memories.
Back
in Italy I resumed my old part-time job. The little money I earned I
spent on books and, from this period onward, on travel. “The
desire to travel”, Rizal said, “is
so innate in man that it seems that Providence has put it in each one
of us... so his life [is] prolonged and renewed as he goes traveling
in different countries. He lives more, because he sees, feels,
enjoys, and studies more than one who has seen only the same fields
and the same sky.” The quest for one’s identity is more
or less a kind of traveling. To travel is to be exposed to the
presence of other cultures, other historical realities, other
societies- their achievements, potentialities, limitations and
differences. A migrant carries a constant feeling of traveling. To be
a migrant is to be in two places at the same time. The first place,
the native land, the one abandoned, left behind, but not totally put
out, is not felt as a topographical location but as an internal
resource, a living memory, a map of love. The second place, the
actual place of migration, is an uncertain land, a space of
discovery, struggle, learning, and endurance; a place where the
migrant’s sense of adoptability is always put into question and
constantly challenged by its surroundings.
My
idea of identity is informed by that reality of being in two places
at the same time. My attachment with my native home is made even more
inflexible by each visit I made in these ten years. A deep feeling of
love for my country and its people, its follies and strengths, its
beauty, grows within me as time goes by. The everyday people’s
sense of endurance in the face of hardship. A mixture of
intelligence, compassion, cunning, and hope is what constitutes the
Filipino spirit. My journey in Europe, Italy in particular, has given
me an enormous understanding of the West’s political and social
culture and their connection with (and impact in) the political and
social life in the Philippines and in the third world in general.
Today
as the wars in some parts of Africa and the Middle East continue and
the flow of refugees coming to Europe is increasing, as transnational
corporations destroy and appropriate indigenous lands in Asia, as the
economy collapses in Europe which then motivates right-wing political
parties and effects social anxiety, the condition of displacement is
the rule of the day. The West must face the consequences of its
horrific past (colonialism and imperialism) if it hopes to
rehabilitate its values. The quest for identity of every migrant is a
process also applicable to the inhabitants of the West. By giving in
to panic and racism, by overlooking the critical situation of the
refugees they betray the liberal values which the democratic world is
thought to aspire. By withdrawing to their narrow notion of
patriotism they lose their humanistic roots. The great intellectual
Edward Said remarked in his magisterial book, Culture and
Imperialism:
“Just
as human beings make their own history, they also make their cultures
and ethnic identities. No one can deny the persisting continuities of
long traditions, sustained habitations, national languages, and
cultural geographies, but there seems no reason except fear and
prejudice to keep insisting on their separation and distinctiveness,
as if that was all human life was about. Survival in fact is about
the connection between things.”
No
one today can claim the security and stability of one’s own
group through isolation and indifference. History is a witness to the
solidarity of peoples as the main catalyst for social change. In a
confused world, perhaps solidarity is an important step towards one’s
own identity.
“Will
I return to my native land for good?” is a question a migrant
asks himself not infrequently. The sense of necessity that has driven
him to leave is also what drives him towards returning. To answer the
question of home is to attempt to solve the puzzle of identity. Once
a resolute image of home is achieved an attachment to and appeasement
of one’s identity becomes viable.
Carlo
Rey Lacsamana is a Filipino born and raised in Manila,
Philippines. Since 2005, he has been living and working in the Tuscan
town of Lucca, Italy. He regularly contributes to journals in the
Philippines, writing politics, culture, and art. His works have been
published in magazines in the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Scotland,
Italy, Germany, The Netherlands, Australia, India, China, and Mexico.
Visit his websiteor
follow him on Instagram @carlo_rey_lacsamana.