The Trip I Never Wanted To Take: Golden Temple




Apoorva Goyal

 
© Copyright 2026 by Apoorva Goyal




Photo by Oleg Yunakov at Wikimedia Commons.

I am a banker, and I do not just go on trips.

Ask anyone who knows me. When I travel, I plan. I research, I book, I make lists, and then I check the lists. A journey, to me, is a project with a deadline and a budget. So when my husband said, “Let’s go to Amritsar,” on a long weekend that I had reserved entirely for doing nothing, I was shocked.

It had been a long, hectic week at work. My only plan was to stay at home and rest. I wanted my own bed, my own quiet, and no alarm clocks. And now, in the middle of that peaceful plan, I was being asked to travel. Suddenly. With no preparation at all.

I will be honest: I was irritated. But he was sure, and he had that look that says the decision is already made. Three hours later, we were sitting on a train.

Those three hours were a blur. I spent one of them packing, which for me is a strange thing to say, because I normally pack for days. This time I simply threw things into a bag: my traditional wear, my favourite pair of baggy pants, a few t-shirts, my shoes and my chappals. My husband handled the tickets. I carried my phone, my charger and some cash, and nothing else, literally nothing else. I had not even eaten. “We’ll eat or order something on the train,” he said, and I felt more irritated than before.

But I have learned that things go smoothly when God has plans for you. I did not know yet what those plans were.

*****
The train began to move, and somewhere between the first station and the second, something strange started to happen to me.

I do not usually eat chocolate. It is simply not something I crave. But on that train, I wanted a chocolate so badly that I turned to my husband and asked him for one. He looked at me in surprise. He knows me, and he knew this was not like me.

Then, at one of the stations, I saw the tea sellers moving along the platform, and I wanted station wali chai with a strength I cannot explain. I should tell you that I never eat anything alone. If my husband is not having something, I avoid it too. It is a habit, almost a rule. But this time, my craving was so strong that I did not wait. I did not even ask him. I went and got my chai, and I drank it happily.

After that, the whole journey became a food adventure. At one station, we had samosas and chai. At the next, bread pakoras. Then Amritsari chole kulche, followed by biscuits, then cake, then more chocolates. My husband, who was enjoying the show, ate along with me. And then there were the soft drinks. I am an addict of soft drinks. Normally, I would never refuse one. But on that train, I rejected every single one, straight away, and held on to my chai.

It was very strange, and I remember noticing it. But I was too busy enjoying myself to think about it. The train rolled on through the night, and I was, for the first time that weekend, completely happy.

*****
We reached Amritsar close to eleven at night.

I had expected the city to be sleepy at that hour. It was not. Crowds filled the streets, people moving slowly and talking softly. The temple was already closed for entry that night, and for a small moment I felt disappointed. We had come all this way, so suddenly, and the doors were shut.

But I was not ready for what I was about to see.

We came around the corner, and there it was: the Golden Temple, glowing in the middle of the water like a jewel someone had gently set down in the dark. The lights fell on the gold and the water carried the glow back up, so that the temple seemed to shine twice, once in the air and once on the surface below.

I stopped walking. I do not think I decided to. My feet simply stopped.

I felt mesmerised, and then something deeper than that. I felt numb, but in the gentlest way a person can be numb, as if every worry I carried had quietly set itself down. All around me the crowd was moving and murmuring, and inside me everything had become completely still.

And then the calm came.

I have never been able to describe it properly. It washed over me, slowly, from somewhere I could not name. It was not excitement, and it was not exactly happiness. It was peace, the kind that asks nothing of you.

My husband and I sat down on the steps. We did not speak. For a moment I thought I should say something, that a moment this big deserved words. But no words came, and I understood that none were needed. We sat side by side, looking at the temple on the water. Nothing else was wanted. Nothing else was missing.

For the first time in a very long time, I was not thinking about the next thing. I was not planning or worrying or hurrying. I was simply there, and being there was enough. It is a feeling I will never forget for the rest of my life.

*****

The next morning, I was very excited to go inside.

But it was Guru Parv, and the whole city seemed to have come to the temple. We joined a line that stretched farther than I could see, and we waited for almost five hours, moving forward inch by inch. Only twenty people were allowed in at a time. I, who plan every minute of my life, stood there with no idea how long it would take, and strangely, I did not mind.

When we finally reached the entrance, I was allowed in, but my husband was held back. The doorman was strict, and I understood that those were the rules. But after all that waiting, I could not bear to go in alone. I turned to the doorman and asked him to please let my husband come with me. Generally, they do not. But he looked at me, and something in my eyes must have reached him, because he stepped aside and let my husband in.

We walked in together.

I still remember it clearly. It felt like entering a palace filled with jewels. Everything gleamed with gold. Every person I passed had a look of calm on their face, as if the world outside did not exist. The chaos of the crowd, the long wait, the noise, all of it had stayed outside the doors. Inside, it felt like being carried into a different world altogether.

I learned later that the Golden Temple was built to welcome everyone. It stands at ground level rather than on a raised platform, with a door on each of its four sides, because Sikhism teaches that every person is equal, whatever their caste, religion or wealth. Its foundation was laid by a Muslim saint, and Maharaja Ranjit Singh later covered it in gold, which gave it the name the world knows it by. Inside rests the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book, which Sikhs honour as a living Guru.

I folded my hands and closed my eyes. I did not ask God for anything. I only said thank you.

My husband and I had eloped. When we decided to marry, no one in our families agreed to it, and we went ahead and married anyway. Since then we had been happy together. Standing in that glowing place, I felt how much I had to be grateful for, and I thanked God with my whole heart that we had been able to marry and to build a life together.

*****

When we came out, we went to the langar, the community kitchen of the temple, and I understood why people speak of it with such respect.

The langar was begun by Guru Nanak, the first Sikh Guru, to end the divisions between people. Everyone sits on the floor in long rows, side by side, whether rich or poor, and everyone eats the same simple meal. Volunteers, called sewadaars, serve the food and even wash the plates afterwards, and they do it with a quiet cheerfulness. It is said that around a lakh of people eat here every day, and the dining hall seats several thousand at a time. Yet there was no pushing and no fuss. It was orderly and clean, and everyone was fed.

The meal was simple, with rotis and dal, and it tasted wonderful. After the long hours in the queue, I do not think any meal has ever felt so well earned. Sitting there, I felt that this, truly, was what the temple stood for.

Before we left, we received the kada prasad, the temple’s sacred offering. It is a halwa made from wheat, pure desi ghee and sugar, and it is, to my mind, among the most pious and the finest sweets in the whole world. After all my cravings for chocolates on the train, this was the sweet my heart had really been asking for. It was rich and soft and full of ghee, and I ate it slowly, because it felt like a blessing and not just a sweet.

*****

We had a wonderful time in Amritsar. It was one of those trips that feels easy from the first moment to the last, when two people are relaxed and happy together and nothing needs to be perfect.

But somewhere along the way, a quiet thought had begun to grow in my mind. The strange sense of smell. The hunger that would not go away. The chocolate, the chai, the soft drinks I had refused. I could not ignore it any longer. I felt that I might be pregnant.

I told my husband what I was thinking. He was startled at first. “Do you really think so?” he asked, because it all seemed so soon to him. I told him that I had a feeling, an intuition, and that I could not explain it any better than that.

His surprise did not last. Within moments he was very, very happy, delighted and very, very excited. He could not wait for us to get home so that we could do the test.

When we got home, I went to get tested.

I waited for the result with a heart that felt too big for my chest. And then it came.

It was positive.

I looked at it for a long time. I thought of the steps, the water, and the golden light. I thought of the calm that had washed over me that first night, and I wondered whether some part of me had already known. I will never be able to prove that, and I do not need to.

What I know is this: I did not want to go to Amritsar. I had a plan to rest at home, and I was irritated when it fell apart. But a trip I never planned, taken on my husband’s sudden decision, gave me the most peaceful moment of my life, and then became the beginning of something I had not imagined.

I did not plan that journey. I am so grateful it happened anyway.


Apoorva Goyal is a banker by profession and a mother. This is her first story written for publication, and she has no previous writing credits. She is from Dehradun, a valley in India.


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