A group of American teachers working for the US Government on Incirlik Air Force Base in Adana Turkey, decided to go visit Afghanistan for the holiday. There were about 10 of us, and we headed out with cameras and sturdy shoes.  At that time, Afghanistan was very welcoming, peaceful and beautiful.

The first glitch was the unscheduled stop in Tehran, Iran ,because of a malfunction in the airplane.   We were taken to a very nice hotel in downtown Tehran and told to stay in the hotel.  All the turmoil about the deposed Shah was bubbling around us. 

After being cooped up in the hotel for hours, three of us decided we needed some fresh air, and went outside for a walk.   Immediately, we were harassed by teenagers, yelling at us, and just being a nuisance.  We walked quickly around the hotel and went back in, those kids were far too rambunctious, and we were women in our 40s and 50s.   We went back inside the hotel and didn’t move until the flight was ready.  We lived in Turkey and had never experienced such behavior.

About 12 hours later, the ten of us were told to get into the waiting taxis and head to the airport.  It was about a five -hour flight.  The plane was moving oddly, like a large woman sashaying down the sky, wagging the tail the entire trip.  We were very tired when we landed, but very grateful to be on the ground.   The Hotel Kabul was simple but clean, and was known to welcome diplomats, so we felt safe and comfortable.  As I recall, an American diplomat was murdered there, some months later.   Our timing was good.

The week was filled with lots of travel on a little bus just big enough for the 10 of us, the driver, and his helper on many dirt roads.  The bus was decorated with bright colored paint, strings of colored balls and a large blue bead “Mavi Bonjuk”   good luck charm hanging from the mirror.  I cannot recall the names of all the towns we visited.  The food was excellent, and spicy.

We stopped at two Buzkashi tournaments. The game is something like soccer, with horses, and the “ball” is actually a goat carcass.  The horsemen dashed around attempting to steal the goat from the other team, so they would be the one dropping the carcass in the winner’s circle. Just like baseball, sort of.   This was all outside, where people bought food from booths, and children rode a hand cranked ride like a vertical merry go round.

We went on to get to our next stop.  On the way, we stopped at a site that used to be a major city along the Silk Road but little remains today.   I picked up a small piece of Turquoise colored clay or something like it.   I think the blue coloring  is  Faience.

I recall the Afghan food with love.   Some of our fellow travelers had difficulty with the highly seasoned dishes, but for me it was a major banquet.   I ate most of the Turkish dishes where we lived, and Afghan food was very similar.   Lamb, vegetables, sweet desserts, but unfortunately, several of our group didn’t like the spiciness.

The most fascinating thing we saw and most impressive were the Buddhas of Bamiyan.    Approximately 600AD, the Chinese Buddhists created these huge statues in a rock wall which they carved to create both the statues and their niches where they stood.  The largest was about 180 feet tall, and the smaller one was 130 feet tall.   The workmen apparently had carved a path up into the rock walls, and then dropped on ropes through holes in the ceiling, in order to carve the statues.  

Originally, the statues had some kind of mask, as their faces were carved off making a space for something to hang from them.  All around the niches are rooms where obviously the workmen lived, and people ever since have sought refuge in those rooms.   Some of our group actually climbed up into the rooms and waved at me and my friend as we were having tea across the road from the statues. 

That night, we stayed in a strange little hotel in Bamiyan. For showers, we had to ask the hotel staffer to light the fire to warm the water.  We had a good dinner of lamb and vegetables in a stew.   Most of the group were looking to get an early sleep, maybe take a shower, or read. A friend suggested we take a walk in the starlight.  Cold but beautiful, we could see the statues from the moonlight.

The town has one street.  On both sides, there are buildings, wooden sidewalks and the dirt street, wild west style. Shortly after we started, two guards carrying guns started walking behind us, keeping their distance, but when we kept walking, they started telling us to go back to our hotel “hotel mister” They repeated until we decided that since they had the guns, and we didn’t, we should turn around and go to the hotel.  Apparently, we had not gotten the message about staying in the hotel.

We had "sort of hot" water for a shower, and I think there was electricity until bedtime.  We were fed a great dinner and breakfast, but were warned not to leave the hotel after dark. 

Apparently since the Taliban and other such folk took over the country, many people would leave Kabul and take up residence around the statues.  Now unfortunately the statues have been destroyed, on the premise that they were not Muslim.  When I heard that news report, I immediately had my photos printed and mounted in a silver frame, and they have a central place on my living room wall.

The next day, we went to another Buzkashi game, but this time, there were no stands for the onlookers, just a sloping mountainside, with no seats.   The horsemen were all decked out in colorful gear, and the goat was definitely dead, and bleeding.   It was fascinating to watch, but I am not a fan. 

Later that day, we packed up and started back to Kabul.   I think a few of us went that evening to the bar at the Intercontinental Hotel which gave us a great view of the city. At that time, women worked in banks and stores, and many dressed in Western Dress.  Unfortunately for females of all ages, the Taliban have created an intolerable situation.   No  freedom to do anything, make decisions for themselves, leave their homes without male chaperones,  go to school, own a business or have a job, choose who they marry.

 The next morning, we were getting ready to fly back to Istanbul, and were told that the Russians had entered Afghanistan that day.  It was the beginning of the end for Afghanistan. We were ever so glad to be back in a “normal” country like Turkey.     Afghanistan may not ever become a place where women can leave their homes, or go to school.  It is so totally different now than what we saw in 1980.    

*****

Information  about the photo.

The photo shows the wall with the niches for the statues.  I just recently discovered that while the original statues were blown up, recently new images of Buddha, are inserted in the niches, or projected there electronically.   Just search online “Bamiyan Buddhas”  and you should easily find what has happened.  It gives me much joy.

The photo on the left shows the large Buddha, 180 feet tall.  I was standing near his feet, to take the picture.  The holes in his arm may be windows for people who have taken refuge there.   Above his head are holes in the ceiling, where perhaps workmen hung on ropes to carve the statue.

The Buddha on the right is in his niche, with openings all around in the walls.   He is 135 feet tall.   The larger holes were probably homes for families or the workmen.  The two statues are not side by side.   The niches are now somewhat reborn thanks to a Chinese couple who have recreated the appearance, using a sort of sound and light show.  

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